I had been to Sicily several years ago, but I had only visited Palermo and the northwest coast. My husband and I took a bus trip to Catania to visit a friend of mine who is a writer.
This time, I wasn’t able to meet up with her in Catania, so I continued on to Syracuse, where I was set to embark on an adventure that didn’t turn out as I’d hoped.
The ship was anchored off the coast of Syracuse, and you could reach it by rubber dinghy from the small island of Ortigia.
Geologically, Ortigia is part of the Iblean Mountains and is built on limestone, beneath which lies fresh water. Its western coast forms the natural entrance to a large gulf or bay: the Porto Grande of Syracuse.
It is certainly a very touristy place, crowded even in September. The island has been extensively developed, which is why there isn’t much vegetation. Thus, there are few Mediterranean plants such as palm trees and fig trees, but also Cyperus papyrus, from which the material used to make papyrus sheets is derived. This enormous plant grows right inside the “Aretusa Spring.”
Its fauna, consisting mainly of numerous marine species, also includes ducks and freshwater fish, both of which are found exclusively in the Aretusa Spring.
In the narrow, colorful alleys lined with a multitude of small shops and stalls, you can find just about anything. Many artists display their creations: macramé bracelets adorned with shells or semi-precious stones, paintings and small art prints, local handicrafts, a selection of colorful, handcrafted ceramics. Sure, even here some items looked like they were “Made in China,” but a few small shops did display tasteful and well-crafted items.
Then there’s the historic Ortigia Market, which gives tourists a better understanding of the cultural and commercial traditions of this place. It’s a melting pot of different ethnic groups and traditions. I loved its scents and colors of the fresh fruit and vegetables, and locals doing their shopping amid the hustle and bustle of vendors using the traditional “vanniata”: a sung, folkloric call with which they attract the attention of passersby, extolling the the freshness of their products.
The Cathedral of Syracuse is undoubtedly the most unique church in Sicily. Built in the 5th century B.C. as a temple to Athena, it was gradually transformed into a Christian basilica during the Byzantine era, then renovated several times until it acquired its current Rococo façade, designed by Andrea Palma in 1754. This layering of 2500 years of history is evident in the imposing Greek Doric columns still visible within the thick walls of the nave, integrated into the structure as true stone testaments to the past. Then there is the Basilica of Saint Lucy at the Sepulcher, also known as Saint Lucy Extra Moenia, which houses one of the most important works ever painted for Sicily: the “Burial of Saint Lucy,” a massive painting created by the Italian Baroque painter Caravaggio in 1608. Caravaggio had found refuge in Syracuse while fleeing Malta, following a death sentence handed down by the Order of the Knights of St. John. Not to mention the Shrine of Our Lady of Tears, which was unfortunately closed.
And that’s just to name three… since there are at least 18 churches, basilicas, and cathedrals in total.
